Newport, Rhode Island to Camden, Maine
By David Nicholson
While Leo Conway (ICC), and I were scanning the coastline of Cape Cod, we missed a most phenomenon sight just behind our backs. The others were lucky to be looking at that very moment. It happened in relatively shallow water off the North East corner of the Cape Cod Peninsula. A massive creature breached in the water, and soared high above our heads, a huge dark shiny body. It was gone within two seconds as it re-entered the water in a perfectly arched dive. Florrie Long (ICC), and Kieran Kelleher, a nephew of the late Dr Cal Condon, were mesmerised as they witnessed the performance and stepped hurriedly to the other side of the boat. On turning I saw the splash which was less than two boat lengths away but thankfully did not come aboard. When describing the creature to locals they told us it was a FIN Whale and that they come there annually to feed.
Our delivery trip started in early September, in Newport, Rhode Island, when we picked up my son Eddie’s boat, “Mollihawk’s Shadow” from a mooring in the busy harbour. Our journey was to be some 400 miles Northward to Penobscot Bay and Wayfarer’s Boatyard in Camden. We planned to move quickly Northwards along the Massachusetts Coast, into the more scenic rugged rock strewn coastline of Maine. Leo had picked out his choice of attractive overnight stop over, which included: Rockport- Orrs-Baileys Y.C in Casco Bay – up Harpswell Sound to Bath (12miles in land) – Boothbay Harbour and in Penobscot Waterway, the towns of Rocklands, North Haven, Belfast and lastly Camden. But first we had to side track and visit Nantucket, where I had friends whom Joan and I sailed with in the Caribbean in 1993. We tracked them down easily through the Internet, and Jeremy and Pat David were delighted to hear from me and promised us a great welcome. Two days in the busy tourist town of Newport, which is of course twinned with Kinsale, saw us away from the “Flesh Pots”, with fuel, water and stores aboard. After and 11 ½ hour, 68 miles motor sailing via Martha’s Vineyard Sound, we tied up in Nantucket, on a marina kindly lent to us by our friends, for the 3 nights of our stay. This visit was probably the highlight of our trip as we were feted for two full days by Pat and Jeremy – such kindness. Nantucket has its own special atmosphere. Strict careful planning has preserved all things connected with the golden era of whaling. A fine Heritage Whaling Museum is a major attraction. The planners have allowed large homes to be built by the “Rich and Famous” from large cities of America, but they are well away from the town centre.
Off Northwards, with one night stop over, we sailed 120 miles to Marblehead, a huge yachting centre just north of Boston. On calling the Boston Y.C. on VHF, we were welcomed and allotted a mooring for three nights amongst an armada of boats. The club had a regular ferry service and we had the use of all the facilities. Kieran left us here to get back to his work with the World Bank – what a pleasure it was to have him with us – he brought another dimension to our thinking about the environment. His job is to provide funds to poorer communities all over the world, which enables them to improve their fishing industries while also preserving the environment.
A couple of days later Jack Forde (ICC), arrived – his number one duty – to keep us laughing !! We had now two weeks to cover the remaining 250 miles to Camden. So, we aimed to sail without engine each day for several hours and to arrive in port early each afternoon in order to have time to visit and eat ashore. This worked out very well as the weather was mostly kind, with little rainfall. Responsibilities were shared around, with Florrie in charge of stores and evening chef. His scallop dishes were so tasty he was awarded the full Michelin 3 stars. Jack was winning in his main responsibility, as all crew were getting on like a house on fire and the ship was full of laughter. Leo kept us off the rocks which were everywhere and picked interesting ports to visit, and I kept an eye on all Mollihawk’s Shadow's equipment. The coastline of Maine must be one of the most scenic areas in the world. Harbours and inlets abound and everywhere is adequately buoyed. A carpet of green covers the land with tall conifers running right down to the waters edge. Huge houses line the sheltered coastlines, each with his own pontoon for sea access. Some homes are so massive we initially thought they must be hotels or apartments!! One of our greatest pleasures was flying the “CODE O” in a reaching wind, through” a calm sea doing 7-8 knots. The auto helm did the work and the crew drank the beer. It does not come much better!
Dodging lobster pots became a tedious game and we eventually realised the tightly laid tall fat buoys were no danger as they were pushed from our sides as we passed. In the shallower water and in the harbours they cover the sea everywhere 50 to 100 yards apart. With the huge density the poor lobsters have no chance and in my view they will be fished out over a short number of years, similar to the over fishing of King Crab in the Eleutian Islands and Cod in the Lofoten Islands. We rounded the light house at the entrance to Penobscot Bay with a few days to spare before we were due in the Wayfarer boatyard. It is a huge waterway with a number of towns and many anchorages in the sheltered rocky back waters. It is an ideal cruising playground. We overnighted in three harbours, Rocklands, North Haven, and Belfast, and stretched our legs ashore and enjoyed meeting some of the local sailors.
Our ropes were taken as we came alongside the boatyard’s dock in Camden, and we were greeted by Susan Howland, Chief Executive Officer of Wayfarer Marine - indeed a friendly gesture. A meeting together quickly sorted out all our financial queries and requests. Mollihawk’s Shadow is to be laid up ashore with her mast up and sheathed in a strong plastic cocoon with an access door for occasional inspection during the icy winter season. Leo and I met Simon Castle, Service Manager, and listed off our requirement for care of the boat while with the yard. All water has to be removed due to the winter icing and we agreed to look after emptying the water tanks and flushing them with strong anti-freeze. Once the boat was ashore, the yard would take care of the engine, generator and outboard etc. We had two days to complete decommissioning and carry out the list of twenty-five items on the boat’s control manual. We met Doug and Dale Bruce, the OCC port officers. They were more than helpful. Together we went to their favourite restaurant for a meal and next day Dale drove us to the bus terminal to make our five hour journey to Boston. We were told about Wayfarer by friends, and we were overcome with their efforts to please us. I can highly recommend the boatyard to fellow sailors.
Don’t miss Maine – you won’t be disappointed.
